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Kankan-zushi (Hora-ita Zushi)

Kankan-zushi (Hora-ita Zushi)

The echo of wooden mallets: Kagawa’s traditional preserved sushi, "Kankan-zushi"

About Kankan-zushi (Hora-ita Zushi)

Kankan-zushi (カンカンずし, Kankan-zushi) is a traditional pressed sushi from the Kabe area in Sanuki City, Kagawa Prefecture, with origins dating back to the Edo period. This preserved delicacy features fresh sawara (Japanese Spanish mackerel) from the Seto Inland Sea as its main ingredient. The name "Kankan-zushi" is derived from the "kankan" sound made when a wooden mallet drives wedges into a mold while making the sushi.

The preparation involves first curing the sawara with salt and vinegar to enhance its preservation qualities. Sushi rice is packed into a wooden frame, topped with the cured sawara, layered with bamboo leaves, and then covered. Wooden wedges are hammered into place with a mallet to firmly press the sushi, ensuring its shape stays intact. After resting overnight, the flavors meld together, and the sushi can be stored for several days.

Historically, Kankan-zushi served as a valuable preserved food during the busy farming season, offering local farmers a convenient and nutritious meal amidst their hard work. It was also a staple for ceremonies and festivals, strengthening community bonds and celebrating regional traditions.

Sawara, the key ingredient, is rich in protein, low in fat, and packed with health benefits from nutrients like vitamin D, EPA, and DHA. The sushi rice provides a vital source of energy and, combined with vinegar, promotes appetite and helps combat fatigue.

Kankan-zushi is known for its robust and savory flavor, pairing exquisitely with pure rice sake, especially those with a rich umami profile or gentle, refreshing acidity like ginjo sake. It pairs particularly well with locally brewed sake from Kagawa, allowing you to immerse yourself in the regional essence.

Although Kankan-zushi is less frequently made at home today, it remains a proud representative of traditional cuisine in the Higashi Sanuki region of Kagawa. Its timeless flavors and cultural significance continue to captivate locals and visitors alike. If you ever visit Kagawa, make sure to savor this unique and delicious dish—and experience a taste of its rich food culture.