Kankan-zushi (Pressed sushi with Spanish mackerel)
Kagawa’s traditional preserved sushi, named for the sound of the mallet

About Kankan-zushi (Pressed sushi with Spanish mackerel)

Kankan-zushi, a local dish passed down in the Kabe area of Sanuki, Kagawa, is a type of pressed sushi made mainly with fresh Spanish mackerel caught in the Seto Inland Sea. It has been made as a preserved food since the Edo period. Its name comes from the “kan-kan” sound made when wedges are driven in with a wooden mallet.

To make it, the Spanish mackerel is first cured with salt and vinegar to help preserve it. Sushi rice is packed into a wooden box, topped with the cured fish and a leaf of haran, then covered with a lid. Wedges are driven in with a mallet to press the sushi firmly and help it hold its shape. After resting overnight, the flavors meld, and it can be kept for several days.

In the past, it was valued as a preserved food during busy farming seasons, offering farm workers a convenient meal between tasks. It was also enjoyed at occasions such as memorial services and festivals, and has played a role in strengthening community ties.

Spanish mackerel is the main ingredient. The source describes it as high in protein and low in fat, and as containing vitamin D, EPA and DHA. Rice provides energy, while the vinegar is said to stimulate the appetite and help relieve fatigue.

Kankan-zushi has a robust flavor and pairs well with junmai sake with pronounced umami or ginjo sake with a lighter acidity. Enjoying it with sake from Kagawa is a way to experience the character of the region.

Although it is less often made at home today, Kankan-zushi continues to be passed down as a representative local dish of eastern Kagawa. Visitors are invited to try it and experience Kagawa’s food culture.

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