Kokera Sushi

A celebratory dish served during special occasions
Kokera Sushi Wakayama

Kokera Sushi introduction

Kokera Sushi (こけら寿司, Kokera sushi) is a traditional pressed sushi made by layering vinegared rice with toppings such as flaked grilled fish, shiitake mushrooms, carrots, and eggs, which are then pressed firmly in a wooden mold. It is considered to be one of the original forms of "oshizushi" (pressed sushi) or "hakozushi" (box sushi). The name "kokera sushi" comes from theories such as the wooden shingles, known as "kokera ita," used in the pressing molds, or the resemblance of its appearance to "kokera," the wood shavings created when timber is planed. The toppings for Kokera Sushi vary by region. Near the Tanoura Fishing Port in Wakayama City, a summer festival was traditionally held to pray for abundant fish catches and to honor the fish. During this festival, a type of Kokera Sushi featuring fish such as goatfish (himeji) and lizardfish (eso), caught in the spring and summer, was served. Preparing himeji requires prior salting and resting for some time, so preparations were started well in advance of the summer festival. In Saikasaki, Wakayama City, Kokera Sushi is made with lizardfish that is finely flaked after being grilled. The fish is cleaned by removing the head, tail, and internal organs, and the small bones are carefully picked out. This dish is considered a special treat for guests and is sometimes called "Tonton Sushi" because the fish is tenderized by gently pounding it with a knife. In Matsue, Wakayama City, Kokera Sushi is layered multiple times with vinegared rice, shredded shrimp, and sea bream. Sometimes redfish is used as an alternative to shrimp. In Nachikatsuura Town, the sushi features toppings like black soybeans, river shrimp, shiitake mushrooms, freeze-dried tofu, and carrots. To divide the sections within the sushi, banana leaves are used around the time of summer festivals, while takana leaves are used during autumn festivals or New Year's celebrations. Even when Kokera Sushi becomes slightly firm, grilling it adds a unique and deliciously different flavor. In Wakayama City, local cooking classes and hands-on events are held to teach residents and students how to make Kokera Sushi and other regional specialties, preserving this beloved local culinary tradition for future generations.

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